The story behind the Ralph Lauren Oxford shirt

Along with blue jeans and the white t-shirt, the Oxford shirt can be considered one of the most important and useful garments in the male wardrobe. The Oxford fabric's durable and comfortable composition makes it a great shirt to wear in casual situations, but the shirt is also stylishly classic, perfect for formal occasions.

Text: viktor gustafsson
photo: Gustaf peterson

Published 2023-10-14

It all began in the 1800s when people searched for elegant clothes that could be worn for horse polo, cricket and other outdoor sports. Even then, the advantages of the robust structure of the Oxford shirt were realised. The name Oxford comes from Oxford University, where the shirt took off and quickly spread to other prominent schools such as Yale and Harvard. The Oxford shirt was to be worn by everyone - girl or boy. The shirt was usually combined with a regal striped tie and chinos with penny loafers. This everyday style was the basis for the Ivy League and the preppy style that then spread to more universities and schools throughout the 50s and 60s. The style itself was synonymous with upper class, academic intellect and a relaxed elegance.

Ralph Lauren, John E. Brooks & the Americana style

The pioneer of the advancement of the Oxford shirt was in many ways the founder of Brooks Brothers, John E. Brooks. During a trip to Great Britain at the end of the 19th century, he received inspiration for how to sell the Oxford shirt on the American market. Something that Brooks have continued success with to this day. Today, Brooks has some of the best Oxford shirts on the market. They are not alone in this, Japan’s Kamakura also manufactures the shirt, and at a very good price, as well as Britain’s Drake's.

Having said that, there is one brand that has succeeded a little more than the others. When young fashion designer Ralph Lauren launched his first collection, featuring only ties, it did not take long before people wanted to see more from the American icon. A few seasons later, a larger collection was launched. This included some, even to this day, classic garments from the brand, including the best-selling and widely appreciated Oxford shirt. The shirt was produced in more and more colour combinations and patterns in the coming seasons, making it accessible and attractive to a larger customer group. The shirt could now be used both in the workplace and at a BBQ in the garden with family and friends. Ralph Lauren put the Oxford shirt on the fashion map for good.

Today, the shirt is an important staple of POLO RALPH LAUREN and a key garment portraying the true Americana style, where history, heritage and quality are the foundation.

The model

Today, the Oxford shirt is available in a variety of fits at Polo Ralph Lauren. Custom fit (regular), Slim fit (slim) and Classic fit (relaxed) can be worn in many ways. A more dressy and slim model is, for example, perfect when you wear a relaxed suit, think cotton or flannel. The Oxford shirt then more often comes with an incision in the back, which builds a tailored and figure-hugging fit like a dressy poplin shirt. This model is excellent to wear tucked in whilst combining with a tie.

An Oxford shirt that is more relaxed, on the other hand, is perfect when worn over a t-shirt, with a pair of casual jeans or chinos. Choose trousers/shorts that have a slightly wider fit, which can meet the slightly roomier proportion of the shirt. The Oxford shirt can be both tucked in and worn outside of the trousers. It is a good idea to work layer upon layer, with a pullover or overshirt, or why not with a classic Varsity jacket, blue jeans and a pair of loafers to go all-out Ivy League.

Button Down collar

The button down collar is perhaps the most characteristic attribute of the Oxford shirt. This means that the collar tabs are fastened with small buttons on the front of the shirt. This originates from equestrian and polo sports, where you did not want the shirt collar to disrupt the rider's focus during races and matches.

Oxford fabric

The so-called Oxford fabric, is also available in different designs. Plain Oxford is slightly smoother on the surface and has less structure, while Royal Oxford is slightly rougher to touch. The Oxford fabric is durable, making it last season after season. Despite extensive washing and lots of use, this shirt will only get better. The texture will become softer to the touch over the years and the shirt can also mould itself to the wearer's body.