Text: Joakim Rönnqvist
Photo: Gustaf peterson
The first Seamaster, launched in 1948 and was based on the design of a watch that Omega produced for aviators during the Second World War. This first edition came in two variants: with a central seconds hand and one with a small seconds hand at the bottom of the dial. It was made of stainless steel, designed with short, sturdy lugs and had a slim profile to encourage its use as an everyday watch.
This original version was nothing like the modern, recognisable version sold today. In fact, it did not look like a diver's watch at all. That development came 45 years later — when the Seamaster 300M was released.
Jump forward to 1993, Omega debuts the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, also known as the Omega SMP. Positioned then as a refined and luxurious diving watch, it was a clear departure from the design language of the Seamaster 300 and 600 of the previous decades, with a more detailed case and dial design.
Two years later, the Seamaster made its film debut on Pierce Brosnan's wrist in GoldenEye, and the rest, as they say, is history!
It would be wrong to say that the first appearance of an Omega watch in a James Bond film was a simple product placement. When the series was renewed in the mid-1990s, with a new actor - Pierce Brosnan - not only the characters were renewed, but also the entire costume design.
Lindy Hemming, the costume designer who chose the Seamaster, recalled friends of her father who were ex-military and most of them wore Omega watches as part of their military gear. She wanted Bond to follow the tradition of Omega providing watches to British field agents.
In the film, Bond wears an Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Professional 2541.80. It was the first model in the new collection launched in 1993. At the time, it was still equipped with a quartz movement, which is the exact watch seen in GoldenEye. The watch features the now iconic wavy blue dial, with a matching blue aluminium turning bezel. A large part of the watch's distinctive look is a 5-link steel bracelet with brushed and polished links. With a diameter of 41mm, it has a screw-down crown and a helium valve at 10 o'clock.
Since its debut in 1995, Omega and the Seamaster have been a permanent fixture in the film adaptation of 007. A collaboration that looks set to continue for a long time.
Whether you are a secret agent or not, the desire for a watch of your own can be great. Below I list 3 models and what to keep an eye out for.
Omega Seamaster reference: 2531.80.00
The updated version of the classic Bond watch. With the same aesthetics as the predecessor with a slightly better automatic movement instead of the battery-powered movement.
Keep in mind: When looking for such a watch, try to find one in as good condition as possible, but don't be put off by some minor scratches and patina, as these are relatively easy and relatively cheap to fix.
Omega Seamaster ”SMPc” reference: 212.30.41.20.01.002
A new model launched in 2012 to compete with the equivalent watch from Rolex. Now with an updated Co-Axial movement, a ceramic bezel and screwed links. These updates make the watch significantly more robust than its predecessor.
Keep in mind: This watch differs from its predecessor by missing the iconic wave patterns on the dial – a detail appreciated by some and a shortcoming by others.
Omega Seamaster ”Planet Ocean” reference: 215.30.40.20.01.001
For those of you who like to dive deep, this watch is water resistant down to 600 metres and can handle basically anything. The sporty feel is further enhanced by the brushed links, which sets it apart from the previously mentioned models.
Keep in mind: At 39.5mm in case diameter and 14.2mm in thickness, this watch is best suited to casual and sporty attire rather than a finer suit.
With a history spanning seven decades, the Seamaster series continues to be a favourite among watch enthusiasts worldwide. Through technological advancements and elegant design, Omega has created a watch that is just as impressive underwater as it is on land. It is simply a timeless classic that stands the test of time.
Read more: Everything you need to know about Omega
Answers to the most frequently asked questions can be found here.
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