Presenting Stone Island and The Iconic Compass Rose

Stone Island is the Italian brand that has transferred from experimenting with a fabric from a truck tarpaulin, to being seen in the football stands as well as worn by American hip-hop artists.

Text: Camilla Åsedal
Photo: Gustaf peterson

Published 2023-07-04

Massimo Osti founded Stone Island in the province of Modena in 1982. With a strong focus on innovation, materials and technical detailing, Stone Island has established itself as a leading player in the luxury segment. The brand, well known for its sporty and functional aesthetic as well as minimalist designs, often inspired by military and work wear. The name Stone Island is a tribute to the adventure novels by author Joseph Conrad and his passion for seafaring and the sea, where these words are mentioned often.

Innovative and experimental research

The story of Stone Island begins with founder Massimo Osti's creative attempt to experiment with a truck tarpaulin. After subjecting it to heavy stone washing processes to tame the material's stiff structure, the result was a fabric with a worn yet interesting appearance. Seven jackets were made from one single cloth named Tela Stella. Alongside constant technological innovation, one of the most prominent features of Stone Island is the iconic detachable compass badge. A symbol of the love of the sea and the constant research in the fashion industry is usually positioned on the left sleeve of the garment.

By combining a passion for materials and design with constant innovation, they have created a strong identity that strives to be more than just fashion. Experimentation with different materials and technologies has resulted in water-repellent and windproof fabrics, thermal insulation, and advanced dyeing processes. This demonstrates their quest for unique and innovative expression. For Stone Island, function is as important as aesthetics.

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Stone Island and the Subculture

Stone Island's journey in the fashion world began in the 80s when the garments were mainly worn by the Paninaro movement, the Italian fashion-conscious youth elite of the 80s. While circulating in Milanese fast food restaurants, American popular culture, motorcycles and luxury designer labels inspired Paninaro. With a Moncler down jacket, a pair of stonewashed 501s, and hiking boots as signature pieces, Stone Island and C.P. Company also became natural additions to wear. The style eventually spread to the working class and made its way from Italy to Britain's football stands via football supporters. The British supporters wore the garments for practical reasons in the cold and rainy British weather and as a statement of being part of a community. Films like The Football Factory and Green Street Hooligans, where we see Charlie Hunnam wearing the badge on his sleeve, have made Stone Island even more associated with supporter culture.

Since its inception, Stone Island has been a cultural movement, moving from subcultural Italian youth to British football supporters, American celebrities and designer-conscious wearers. With the philosophy 'beyond fashion, beyond luxury', they continue to experiment and explore, with the compass rose pointing the way forward.

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